In Italy, the food is an experience. Lunches and dinners last at least two hours; you linger over your meal. When you sit at a table, it is considered yours for the night. A restaurant would be considered awful if it tried to turn tables like we do in the states. The waiters are all ‘slow’ by American standards and they do not rush for anything (except keeping wine on the table for the locals). Your waiter will only bring the bill when you ask for it, to do so before is considered rude. When you are ready to leave, simply catch their eye and say ‘Il conto’ for the bill or make a motion of writing something out on your palm. Many restaurants have a ‘pane e coperto’ charge (bread and cover) of a few euros per person and/or ‘servizio incluso’ (tips) built into the bill. You will find both of these on the bill with the ‘servizio incluso’ usually on the bottom. If that is not included in your bill, round up by a few euros (or less than half of what you would do at home). I know it feels wrong not to leave a big tip for a great meal, we Americans are notorious for over tipping while some Italians never do. Rarely I have run into annoyed waiters who were expecting me to tip like a typical tourist, but that reaction is not at all normal. Another time I tipped an excessive amount because I had drank an excessive amount , and the owners made sure I left with a bottle of wine on the house. An example for a meal that cost 37.50 would be to round up to 40. Try to always leave a cash tip on the table, even if you are paying with credit, otherwise your server may never see the money.
Dinner service usually begins around 7:00pm and lasts well into the night. If you want to dine with tourists, be there when they open. Linger until around 8:30 and you will dine with the Italians. Food is served in courses, but you are not expected to order one of each. For example, I often order my own pasta (primi) but share an anitpasti (appetizer) and secondi (meat or fish dish) with my friend. Just remember that the food will be brought out in order and if you skipped a course you will spend that time watching others eat. I find I never go wrong with the house wine but if you want to try a bottle, ask the waiter what would pair well with your meal. While you can’t always trust the bill you can trust them with their food and wine recommendations! I personally find that you can never go wrong with the daily specials. Italians eat with the seasons and chefs pride themselves in finding the best and freshest ingredients. I will often go with their suggestions as well. Europeans love fizzy water, so if you don’t want bubbles you must ask for ‘acua naturale.’
A few dining tips to make you look more like a local:
Don’t use a spoon to twirl your pasta and NEVER cut the noodles with a knife.
If cheese or other toppings didn’t come with your dish then it was not meant to go with it. It is considered insulting to add anything to a dish that the chef prepared as they pride themselves in knowing exactly what ingredients pare with each dish.
By all means, use your bread to sop up the extra sauce. This is considered a great compliment to the chef.
End your meal with an espresso (you can request a decaf).
Take your time to enjoy the meal, each one is an adventure in itself!
I caution everyone to pace themselves or you will find yourself groaning in bed with an overfilled stomach.
It’s the only place on earth that is more crazy about coffee than Seattle. For about one euro, you can get a teeny cup of pure heaven. It’s probably the easiest thing to do in Italy. Head right into any bar and ask for un caffe. You might be asked to clarify that you want an espresso and not an American cup of coffee. Just use your fingers to show a tiny cup and they will understand. Watch the locals. They pour in about as much sugar as coffee and sit stirring it for some magical amount of time, then sling back the liquid in one sip and out the door they go. This is not a Starbucks society where you savor your espresso or even take it to go. I also love my morning cappuccino (which I do take my time with) but only tourists drink them after 10am. Some bars have you pay first and then take your slip to the counter while others do the opposite. If you are unsure just watch how everyone else is doing it and copy. It is a courtesy to leave a small coin to ‘hold the paper down’ for the server. You will also pay more for your coffee if you sit down to drink it, about twice as much as the same cup enjoyed at the bar. The cost can be well worth it if you’ve found a cozy little spot for people watching. The bars usually have quick and easy snacks as well; panini’s are a favorite type of sandwich and great for on the go.
Italian ice cream is another national addiction, and a personal one. I challenge anyone to beat my consumption record: 6 double scoops in one day! Just remember that not all gelato is created the same and if you aren’t careful you could end up disappointed. Follow my advice below and you are sure to never go wrong.
There are a few important things to look for when choosing a gelateria. Only places that make their gelato fresh each day on the premise are legally allowed to display the sign ‘fatta in casa.’ This is a good start but that is not all you want to watch for. A long line is one of the best signs of great gelato. If you see more Italians than tourists, even better. Italians tend to avoid tourists at all costs but will stand shoulder to shoulder with them for a good scoop and you know that your gelato will be worth the wait. If all looks well, step inside and make sure that the gelato is in metal containers and not plastic ones, this will confirm that the ice cream was made in smaller batches and of a better quality. The final check is in the gelato itself. If you notice tons of bright unnatural colors run away. Banana will be your gold standard. If it is gray you have found the perfect spot, if it is any shade of yellow don’t waste another second there. Gelato should be made from fresh ingredients with the primary concern being taste not color. Be wary of any shop that has a big area with table and chairs. While we are used to this set up, in Italy gelato is meant to be consumed on the go and a gelateria trying to encourage you to stay is focused on tourists.
No day is complete without gelato and there is no reason to feel guilty. Gelato’s fat content is at least a third less than our ice cream because it is made from milk and not fresh cream or butterfat. Ordering gelato is similar to getting your coffee. Most places have you buy your gelato ahead of time and the cashier will give you a ticket to take to the counter. Take your time looking around while you decide, but for the server’s sanity make sure that you are ready with your order when it is your turn. You will be ignored if you do not have a ticket. If you are having trouble getting his attention just hold your ticket like a torch and push your way to the front. Be exotic and try different combinations; everything is good.
GROCERIES AND MARKETS
You will be able to find little grocery shops in every town and even some larger more modern ones in the cities. In the produce section there are a few different ways to handle the vegetables. Sometimes the checker (or another employee) will select the produce for you, bag it and weigh it on the spot. All you do is point to what you want. More commonly, you will bag it yourself and then put your selection on a scale. There will be about 100 different buttons with pictures of fruits and veggies. Find yours and simply push, the weight and cost in Euros will be printed on a sticker you attach to the bag (make sure you aren’t LEANING on the scale when you push!). Don’t forgot to wear the disposable plastic gloves, otherwise you will draw many disgusted looks from the local shoppers.
Every city, town and village has a market on a certain day and some are daily. Go early to get the best choices and have the most fun with the pushy old ladies. Markets aren’t limited to just produce; usually you will find trucks full of cheese and meats. If you see someone selling Porchetta sandwiches get one!
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Copyright 2012 Andi Brown, Once in a Lifetime Travel
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